livecostarica

New Chapter

2010-10-21T17:22:00.013-06:00

It feels like a new chapter is beginning.

We just sold our house in La Paz, San Ramon. It's been a rich few years. From my urban childhood in Brooklyn, NY to the pristine natural world in La Paz is quite a trip. We are forever connected and grateful to the Arias family for being there for us in so many ways during our time in La Paz.

It's time for something new, the next chapter.

The new owners are great people and it has a been a fun transition. We are excited for them as they put their personality, ideas and more into making Quinta Mama their place.

For me, I'm going to keep life simple for awhile. I'm exercising daily, cooking and eating well, hanging with friends/family and making space for the new chapter as it unfolds.

The Streets of San Ramon

2010-10-21T17:20:00.018-06:00

After being a country guy these last few years in Costa Rica, I spent last week downtown on the streets of San Ramon. I love the energy of so many people outside ... walking, sitting in the park, chatting with friends. The near perfect 70 degree and sunny weather is a major contributing factor.

I stayed at Hotel La Posada which was comical, comfortable and convenient. The comical part is that after 8+ years living in San Ramon, I have never stayed at a hotel.

Many of the people I've met over the years I ran into on the streets, which helped me feel connected and cared for. The tradition of kissing the women and shaking hands with men just brings you closer.

I have a list of things I always do when I arrive in Costa Rica that seem too expensive when I'm in Ithaca, NY. I love fueling the local economy and indulging, but also feel grateful at how fair and modest the prices are. I visited Dra. Jenny, the dentist and had my teeth checked, cleaned and a cavity filled. Oljer gives the best massages and helped put me in the pura vida mode. Then to my old fashioned barber shop for a haircut and shave that had me styling and relaxed.

In the evening, I met Jimmy and other friends at Bocaditos for drinks and dinner. Very civilized, inexpensive and social. I love their fish in garlic sauce w/potatoes and salad; C1900/$3.75. It was lively and happening every time I was there and the open air setting is festive and fun. I also visited Alonso and Sergio at Rincon Poeta, my former haunt for many years.

An alt to the bar scene has developed in San Ramon recently. The afternoon coffee and pastry scene is thriving and well done. I spent sessions with friends at both Cafe Delicias and Cafe Aroma throughout my week. Cafe con leche, milkshakes, chocolate cake, sticky buns and more gave me the sugar rush I needed.

Life has many sides. I love the beauty and tranquility of La Paz, but this week I was thriving on the gritty, bustling streets of San Ramon. I am amazed when I feel how I am immersed in this small Costa Rica city. Lots of smiling faces, people calling my name and a real sense of belonging.

Eat Pray Love

2010-08-12T11:00:00.000-06:00

On the long plane ride to Costa Rica, I devoured the book Eat Pray Love by Elizabeth Gilbert. It is the story of a divorced woman who feels broken and her journey back to life. She divides a year into 3 – four month periods where she eats in Italy, prays in India and loves in Indonesia (and does lots of other stuff also).

I cried, laughed, and shook my head as an exclamation point as I read the book. When I came to San Ramon, I was in a similar place to the author. Sometimes you need a physical journey to shake your life up. No old friends or family, no familiarity, no patterns and no idea where it is all going.

Everybody has their own way of transformation and their magical people and places that impact them in big ways. This is a cool book for anyone who needs some inspiration to make their life a true reflection of themselves.

A special thanks to my friend Greg who gave me this book. Over coffee, beer, tequila and food we’ve spent 28 years supporting each other through our ups and downs. Sometimes a friend can believe in you even when you don’t believe in yourself.

They say life is about the journey not the destination. Check out Eat Pray Love to stimulate your own personal journey.

Unique Opportunity: House for Sale in San Ramon, Costa Rica

2010-06-17T09:45:00.000-06:00

Moving to a foreign country can be a daunting experience. Rather than an exercise solely in price and value, there are many other issues to creating a successful and happy life ... after the purchase. We have a house for sale in La Paz, outside San Ramon that is all set up for a new owner to enjoy Costa Rica and move smoothly into life in another country and culture with no hassles. We are offering OUR very special, San Ramon home for sale.

After 8 years in San Ramon, Costa Rica ... we are integrated into the local scene as few foreigners are. While many ex-pats flocked to the beach, we found that living in the mountain town of San Ramon a far better alternative. It has milder weather, real Costa Rican culture, a hospital and university and is just 45 minutes from the international airport and an hour from the Pacific Ocean.

We bought this home, Quinta Mama, from an 80-year-old Tica who connected with Janet over the gardens and peaceful porch sitting. In the past two years, the house has been totally renovated to highlight it's charm yet upgrade with new plumbing, electric, hot water, finished ceilings, two new bathrooms, and many finishing decorative touches. This is no easy task in a very different culture, but Janet's experience as an architect and preservationist and my relationships with contractors, neighbors and building supply stores made for a smooth and successful upgrade.

The house is located in La Paz about 20 minutes on a paved road from San Ramon, yet offers a rural lifestyle and environment from another era. The friendliness and slow pace of life in La Paz is unique in a rapidly changing world. Our neighbors use oxen to transport their sugar cane and their life revolves around their family and community. A few other ex-pats have joined us here over the last few years attracted to the natural beauty and quiet lifestyle. It is also an area where a number of Costa Rican professionals have simple weekend homes.

La Paz is one of the more pristine places in the world. About a mile past our house, the road ends for vehicles at the river crossing and horses are needed to continue. At this point, it is all nature with reserves and conservation land stretching all the way to Arenal, Monteverde and Santa Elena. The air and water are as pure as it gets and the area is a haven for birds and butterflies. The house itself is on the route of the Quetzal and the numerous flowering shrubs and trees provide refuge to other rare birds who make our land their home.

Our land is totally organic and bursting with fruit trees, vegetables and flowering shrubs. The half acre plot is all accessible and can feed many families. As a guy originally from NYC, it's been ironic eating all this amazing food from just outside my house ... year round. I love taking hikes in these hills and there is easy swimming and fishing in the river.

Of course the most important thing in owning a home in Costa Rica is the neighbors. We have been accepted as part of the community. Everybody in La Paz knows us by name and always has time to say hi and smile as they pass. The kids come by and practice their English and eat bananas. I have learned how to make fresh tortillas and empanandas with the Arias family from corn grown on our land.

Our neighbors also take care of our house when we are gone. The gardens are tended and the house is safe and clean. This is the real Costa Rica which is getting harder to find as development transforms the country.

Due to some family health issues, we need to sell our home at this time. The price of $88,000 includes everything; just bring a suitcase. Taxes are $25 a year and electric, phone and water bills are each $5-10 a month.

We are ready to help the next owners enjoy this very special place and make it their own. For more photos and info go to www.costaricapm.com/mtn_quintamama.cfm

Riteve: Costa Rica Car Inspection 2010

2009-12-24T16:37:00.003-06:00

One of my least favorite things to do in Costa Rica is have our annual car inspection. Costa Rica subcontracts a Spanish company to do car inspections and the process is frustrating and complicated. Having a 25-year-old car with 200,000 plus miles certainly doesn’t help the situation.

Other Central American countries don’t have a daunting system like this and in New York State the inspections are done by mechanics who fix whatever problems they find so the process is seamless. Here, you pay ~$20 and if you don’t pass, you must go elsewhere to rectify the failures and then return to start the process again.

Our experience started out hectic. To prepare for inspection, our mechanic Wilbur in San Ramon had to adjust our carburetor to improve our emissions which made the car barely drive, a maximum of 10-15 mph uphill with lots of backfiring. Driving to Riteve was a challenge. Despite our repairs, we went through the Riteve obstacle course and failed. After explaining our predicament to the “Man,” he told me to drive around and find a mechanic and return within 2 hours. We found a strategically placed mechanic within a kilometer who tinkered a little with our 1985 Mitsubishi Montero and refused to take any money for his services. Amazingly, when we returned the employees at Riteve felt some sympathy and employed a lenient interpretation for us. The gods were looking out for us as we eventually passed after lots of smiling, pleading and connecting. We got our sticker and this stressful situation was somehow over. Honestly, I shed a few tears of relief as it took a lot out of me to make it work. My Spanish is mas o menos (more or less, mediocre) but in this culture, a heart to heart connection with someone goes a long way.

In order to register our car for 2010 we needed this inspection and at Dec 15, the clock was ticking. In New York State, registrations are cheap and similarly priced for cars whether they are new, old, cheap or expensive. In Costa Rica you pay your annual registration fee depending on the value of your car. Our fee was $88 while a new fancy car could cost over $1,000 a year just to register. In contrast, my house taxes in Costa Rica are only $40 a year vs. over $5000 in Ithaca, NY. It’s not a bad idea to tax to the max luxury cars while making it cheap for everyone to own a home with inexpensive property taxes, phone, electricity and water. What a concept!

From my least favorite task to the best of Costa Rica, a visit to the hot springs. Past years we went to Riteve in Alajuela and Puntarenas. This time we opted for Ciudad Quesada / San Carlos to combine it with an overnight at our favorite hot springs. I have been to Termales del Bosque in San Carlos between 15-20 times over the years and it remains the place I return to most often to recharge in the thermal waters and amazing natural setting. It is very different from Tabacon and Baldi which are more for tourists both price wise and lacking the awe-inspiring nature of Termales del Bosque. (See my blog from Nov.14, 2007 for more observations and photos of our favorite “quasi secret hot springs.”)

A highlight of this trip to the springs was meeting Danny, a 21-year-old Tico who recently started working at the front desk. He was graduating the next day from an intensive English class and said he didn’t get many opportunities to practice his English. He was cool, friendly and had overcome many obstacles to put his life in the positive place it was today.

We had a great 24 hours there with de-stressing soaks in the afternoon and following morning. The rooms are nice and after sitting in the hot springs, driving home the same day ruins the buzz of being totally relaxed. Our package included breakfast, dinner, room and 2 days in the hot springs.

Life is a roller coaster of highs and lows. The insanity of getting our car inspected followed by the ecstasy of sitting in the hot springs was a wild 2-day ride. Keeping balanced and centered through the ups and downs is a process and challenge. Living in another culture keeps life alive with a full spectrum of experiences and emotions.

Sunday ... At The End Of The World

2009-12-11T12:04:00.016-06:00

When we moved from urban San Ramon to La Paz 2 years ago, we were the first and only foreigners in this country oasis. The phone line still ends just past our house and the last mile is on a primitive stone road. About 2 miles past our house the river crosses the road and you need a horse to enter the preserve that stretches all the way to Monteverde and Arenal. In many ways this is the end of the world ... just 20 minutes from San Ramon but as pure and natural as it gets.

In the time we've been here, a couple of folks have bought land past our house and built beautiful houses. It's nice having great new neighbors who also speak English and can be there for each other on this wild journey.

I used to have to go to San Ramon when I wanted more socializing and action. This past Sunday I went to 3 parties walking distance from my house. I never would have imagined this day a year ago.

I started out at an 11AM birthday party for Marielos, our wonderful Tico neighbor whose family has made our time here as smooth as can be. She made homemade corn tortillas and vegetable picadillo for a hearty topping. I didn't stay for the birthday cake as my tradition that grounds me in Costa Rica is watching the NFL on Sundays.

Off to Jeff and Jane's, a couple from Big Sur, California who have built a lovely modern home about a mile past our house. I love the locals but just having someone nearby who is from my culture makes a big difference. We had cocktails and watched some football.

The party shifted to Janet's, a brave 60 something who is La Paz's newest resident. Her land adjoins the preserve and is wild and "out there." My number one sidekick for my 8 years here Jimmy Lee joined us along with my partner Janet. Here we were at "the end of the world" watching the NY Giants (Los Gigantes) beat the Cowboys on satellite, enjoying snacks and drinks. Surreal to say the least!

No matter how native and natural a life we live here in Costa Rica, having a few friends nearby who speak English and have a similar cultural context is nice.

After 3 parties on Sunday we went back to our tranquilo life of sitting on our porch and watching the world go by ... very slowly.

More Cheap Airfares To Costa Rica

2009-11-19T13:46:00.008-06:00

In my lifestyle, airfare between the USA and Costa Rica is a recurring expense. I try to monitor and keep on top of the rapidly changing pricing that is hard to predict.

I just bought a ticket for $186 RT between NYC and San Jose/Alajuela (SJO). In almost a decade of doing this trip, this is the cheapest I have seen. I bought our tickets and wanted to alert all of you to the possibilities. I get regular updates from Travelocity which allows me to check numerous individual airline fares at one site. Some people prefer Expedia, Kayak and others.

It's gonna be cold, dark and snowing soon and having a $186 RT ticket is a great security blanket.

Here is the Travelocity link:
(www.travelocity.com)

Micro-Giving in Costa Rica

2009-10-14T11:47:00.025-06:00

While it's nice to donate to charitable organizations, it's always seemed impersonal and hard to see specifically how I was helping. Also, many organizations use up a lot of their funds on administrative expenses, real estate, staff etc. There are many wonderful organizations who do great work, but I'm enjoying being able to help people directly in La Paz and San Ramon.

Janet and I bought 2 used Apple laptop computers before our last trip to La Paz. Our plan was to donate one to the La Paz school to supplement the one old desktop computer that serves the whole school. The other was a gift to our neighbors, the Arias family who have never owned a computer or been on the internet.

Our neighbors love living in their pristine country setting. They have welcomed us as a filtered source of the bigger world outside. They don't travel, but we bring some exotica into their lives. Yet, they know that learning the internet and English are 2 things that will increase the options in the world ahead for their children.

It was comical going into San Ramon with Mariellas and Carlos (9) to use the WiFi at Cafe Delicias. They now have a Gmail account and access to all the information the internet has to offer. I don't think I have to worry about them becoming addicts like folks I have known, but they now have a good tool for connecting with people far away and learning whatever they are curious about.

We gave the other computer to the La Paz school and received a sincere heartfelt thanks and warm welcome. The principal, teachers and students all shared how surprised and appreciative they were of our donation. Cool stuff.

I'm hoping to volunteer to teach English at the La Paz school in the near future. Since many of the English teachers have never lived in an English speaking country, often their pronunciation or knowledge of common ways of speaking, idioms, expressions, slang etc. is limited.

It's great to donate money to charitable organizations who really help their target groups. For me, it's been nice to be able to give directly to my neighbors things of $$$ value and also share my experience. I have learned so much from them about how to successfully live in San Ramon. Life is good when there is balance.

I'm Back... Wow!

2009-10-01T13:27:00.017-06:00

I haven't written for a few months as life got hectic and challenging. After some time in the USA sorting it out, we returned to Costa Rica last night. This is the longest I had been away from Costa Rica in 8 years. As we drove from San Ramon to our little paradise in La Paz, life just became simpler and innocent, or as the locals say "muy tranquilo."

For me, the key to a good and successful life in Costa Rica is good neighbors. While we were away, the Arias family took care of our land and house so well... it made me teary eyed and oh so welcomed. As we drove up to our house, we saw the beckoning lights. Our house was clean and the kitchen was stocked with organic fruits and vegetables from our land.

After a long day (17 hours) of travel and months of stress, sleeping in this serenity is healing on so many levels. We awoke to clear blue skies and awesome mountain views. The birds sang at sunrise and the sounds of the river combined into a symphony for awakening.

As a bookend to one of the most difficult parts of my life, I feel very blessed at the moment. Life is an unfolding mystery that keeps changing. Time for a nap to soak it all in ... beyond words.

World Economic Crisis and San Ramon, Costa Rica

2009-04-06T17:39:00.013-06:00

It is shocking how the world economy has changed from a year ago. Many people who felt flush with the equity in their houses, value of their stocks and secure jobs are now feeling much poorer as they look ahead. Living in the United States and other developed countries is expensive. It is a time when many are considering other options.

I feel lucky to have found San Ramon. San Ramon feels easier for me as the cost of living is relatively low, life is slower and people just seem to smile more. My property taxes are about $25 a year, electric bill $7 a month and the cost of purchasing my home very affordable. Food is local, fresh and alive with amazing fruits, vegetables and more. Going to restaurants and bars is a regular event and keeps me connected with friends and neighbors.

The financial crisis has opened people to new possibilities for the future. There are many places to explore. I've learned a lot in San Ramon about what is important. Living a happy, healthy life doesn't require big money. This has new importance in these financially challenging times.

Family Time in La Fortuna and Surfing at Playa Samara

2009-03-16T08:38:00.033-06:00

This is Janet’s turn to blog:

In February, my teenage daughters spent two weeks with us exploring our world in La Paz and meeting our friends here. It was a special treat for me to share my Costa Rica life with them. We interspersed their trip with visits to some of our Costa Rica highlights: a day at the hot springs, a visit to La Fortuna, and surf time at Playa Samara.

It was wonderful seeing Madeleine and Lydia exploring La Paz with the local children, going for unexpectedly long likes, swimming in the river and sharing their slack line. We are amazed at how in two weeks they became comfortable in the language and culture of Costa Rica.

The girls came to Costa Rica determined to ride on a zipline. Our good friend Graciela made reservations for us at her family's famous Sky Tram and Sky Trek in La Fortuna (www.skywalk.co.cr) in the shadow of Volcano Arenal. On the drive up to Sky Trek, we pulled off to take photos of the panoramic view of Lake Arenal. When we returned to the car, it wouldn’t start. This inconvenience became an opportunity for the girls to experience one of the true highlights of Costa Rica….the warmth and generosity of its people. We walked the final two hundred meters to the reception desk where the Sky Trek staff went out of their way to help us. While the girls rode the zip lines together, Sky Trek’s maintenance person did what we could to ascertain what was wrong with the car and help get it going. A local hotel owner at Sky Trek with her guests over heard my plight and stepped in to help. She offered us a ride back to La Fortuna with her guests and a room for the night at her comfortable Hotel Vista del Cerro (www.hotelvistadelcerro.com). By evening, her husband had helped tow our car back to the hotel, the hotel cook had given the car a once over by flashlight in the hotel parking lot and had pinpointed the problem before calling a local mechanic who came at night with his family to repair the car’s electric system. We left the next morning with a working automobile and many new friends.

Our days at Playa Samara were equally magical. The girls spent two days playing in the surf with our used surfboard. After many failed attempts to stand, the surf teachers at Surf Samara came to their rescue offering the use of a long, stable board for the day and some surf pointers (www.samarabeach.com). The girls got up on the next try and were surfing like experts by the time we left the beach for home.

The final night was spent back in La Paz with our neighbors. We shared a feast. The Arias family contributed a chicken, rice dish and a tres leche that the girls helped make. We brought a salad and pasta with fresh vegetables for the most part from our shared garden. The evening ended with all the children piled on the beds giggling and playing. We will treasure this time together and everyone here will look forward to the chicatitasnext trip.

Making Cheese Empanadas With The Neighbors

2009-02-11T12:20:00.018-06:00

Being a former restaurant owner and foodie, I love learning about local foods. Costa Rica is blessed with some of the best fruits, vegetables, fish etc. in the world but local cuisine is sometimes lacking creativity and strong flavors.

Since moving to the country, my neighbor Mariellas has been inspirational in teaching me some local favorites. We just planted an organic vegetable garden that both our households will share and we also have plenty or oranges, limons and bananas on our land.

On a lazy Sunday, our neighbors invited us over to make cheese empanadas. Their family has cows and makes the local cheese which is a fresh cheese that looks like a cross between tofu and feta. Often the corn comes from our garden. A couple of weeks before, Mariellas taught me to make fresh corn tortillas. Together we husked our corn, then Hormidas and I took turns grinding it with a hand grinder. The tortillas were like none I had ever tasted before.

We made the dough with cornmeal, salt, grated cheese and a little water. They showed me how to use the tortilla press to make the shell which then got stuffed with more cheese. After a few minutes I was on my own making the empanadas and then frying them. I made about 20 that Janet and I shared with Hormidas, Mariellas and their 3 children. The tortilla press got demystified today and I'm ready to add it to my kitchen tools. I'm excited to start making simple corn tortillas and also to fill the empanadas with vegetables for variety.
I thought a city kid like me might feel isolated in the country, but I'm finding the opposite is true. My neighbors all stop by and chat and the kids have found me a definite curiousity. I'm looking forward to learning some new local dishes and more importantly to share the meals with my wonderful neighbors, the Arias family of La Paz.

Costa Rica 6.2 Earthquake ... January 8, 2009

2009-01-20T12:52:00.021-06:00

Last Thursday Costa Rica had a major earthquake. The current information is 23 are dead, 11 are missing and 2,300 people have been left homeless. The epicenter was near Poas Volcano just a few hours from my home in San Ramon. President Arias declared some areas uninhabitable in the future. There were photos of people walking away with just a garbage bag filled with a few possessions with all else lost. The planet seems to be reacting strongly with extreme weather all over the world and natural disasters on a regular basis.

Fortunately, there was no damage or impact to the people, property and landscape of San Ramon and La Paz. Janet and I were out for a walk during the earthquake/terremoto and didn’t feel a thing. Others in our community felt the tremors, but fortunately little else. We were with our friend and neighbor Falo, showing us a property he wanted us to help him sell. A joyful afternoon of discovery followed while less than 50 miles away chaos ruled.

One thing I learn over and over again is trying to make plans in Costa Rica rarely works and is often frustrating. But lots of cool experiences occur when just taking a walk and being open. As we walked with Falo, he brought us to see the Trapiches in La Paz. Much of the Central Valley is planted with coffee but La Paz seems to be mostly sugar cane/cana. Our neighbors fill up their carts with harvested cane and with their oxen bring it to one of two local Trapiches. (Life and work here sweetly resembles that of 50 or more years ago.)

At the Trapiche the cane is pressed for the pure sweet liquid, then boiled and finally formed into cones of brown solid sweetness, tapa. Agua dulce is a traditional drink made by combining boiled water or milk with the dulce/sweet. At the Trapiche they also make candy that is mixed with yerba buena/mint. It was fun meeting more of my new neighbors and learning about what happens to all the sugar cane that grows here.

We walked home on a stone road thinking our day was winding down and in the middle of absolutely nowhere we discovered Panaderia La Paz. Like wanderers in the desert finding an oasis, we were greeted by 5 women baking and an assortment of sweet and savory breads just out of the oven. They offered us stools and we proceeded to sample their treats. We learned that they bake on Mondays and Thursdays and then package their goods and distribute them at pulperias/corner stores in the area. We now walk by on their baking days, hang out awhile and bring home a few bags of pastries and breads.

I thought I might get bored moving to the country after 8 years living in the center of San Ramon. I find with each day I’m enjoying my new life and connecting with my neighbors in La Paz, 20-30 minutes outside San Ramon. I’m learning a lot about simplicity, community, nature and a joy that doesn’t require a lot of money, things or complex thought patterns.

Trout Farm Restaurants in La Paz, San Ramon Costa Rica

2009-01-09T06:16:00.004-06:00

Rincon Poeta in San Ramon was my local hangout while I lived in the barrio these past 8 years. Many thanks to the owner Alonso, Sergio, Jason, Gigi, etc. for great service and to Carla and the chicas in the kitchen for great food. Out in La Paz (20 minutes into the country outside San Ramon), the 3 trout farm restaurants are becoming my new regular spots.

A cool Costa Rica tradition is trout farms that double as bars and restaurants. Fresh fish is one thing, but eating a fish that was alive just minutes before eating it is another realm.

Mi Tata is the closest to Bajo La Paz center. Located down a dirt road, it has a down home local feeling with it’s open air wooden structure overlooking two trout ponds. When we entered, Johnny Cash was playing followed by “Born to be Wild” and other popular American music…. Kind of surreal. The owner and waitress, who we met on earlier visits, warmly greeted us.

Janet and I started our meal with a few shots of Guaro (Costa Rican sugar cane liquor) and a beer. The Guaro set us back C600/$1.15 a shot and the bottle of Pilsen a mere C800/$1.50. A 1lb. whole Trout dinner with yucca and banana cerviche was delicious, fresh and very satisfying ($5.00). In the USA, people pay big bucks for a fresh fish dinner. In these tough economic times, it’s a real treat to live so well for so little $$$$ and lots of welcoming spirit.

Nearby is Rancho Carrucha which seems to be more family oriented. The first time we were here, it was a busy Sunday and quite the scene. Local families bring their kids for a pleasant day of catching and eating fish, playing pool, a cool time just a short ride from San Ramon.

CentroEcotouristica, the most exotic of the 3 settings, is at the end of the road in Bajo La Paz. After a couple of miles on a stone road you arrive at the edge of a reserve that stretches all the way to Monteverde. A hand painted sign reads, “Mundo Sin Explorer,” loosely translated as, “The World Not Explored.” This is the end of the road for cars and becomes bird, plant and animal paradise beyond this establishment. The air is clean and fresh and the river is perfect for a swim.

The meals are pretty similar at all 3 places. Explore and decide which spot feels best to you.

As I was paying my bill at Mi Tata and walking to my car, “Girls Just Wanna Have Fun” by Cindy Lauper was blasting from the speakers. Great meal, fun scene … and many adventures ahead.

Living in the Barrio

2008-12-20T14:39:00.000-06:00

While many foreigners who came to San Ramon bought lots in ex-pat communities or land in the country, I bought a house in the barrio. Rather than be apart from the culture, I wanted to live in the center of the life that defines San Ramon, Costa Rica. I grew up in Brooklyn, NY and have lived in urban settings most of my life. What seems scary or strange to some has been a wealth of authentic experiences for me.

I’m a 10-minute walk from the central park and the heart of downtown. While many foreigners fantasize about 5 acres separate from others, I had a different plan. By being connected to my neighbors and the flow of life here, I have been changed in ways both profound and simple.

I bought my house in the barrio 3 years ago after renting downtown, near the university for the previous 4 years. How else to learn about my new hometown and become part of it, if I don’t walk the streets and become the newest Ramonense (San Ramon person)?

I was the first foreigner on my street and when I moved in I was quite the curiosity. I felt a bit like an exotic animal at the zoo as my neighbors were happy to have me but perplexed that this guy from the USA bought a house on their block.

Life starts early in Costa Rica. When the sun comes up at 6AM, life begins. Unlike many urban settings, this barrio has the most amazing bird sounds you can imagine. The birds morning songs are followed by kids getting ready for school and family life beginning. A little upbeat Spanish music, the dogs starting their day and then the flow of my neighbors walking down the hill … parents with their kids in their school uniforms, adults heading to work … lots of bicycles, a few cars and motorcycles, but mostly people walking. (It still amazes me how the sexy local women walk in stiletto heels without falling or twisting an ankle. It must be genetic.) There is none of the angst and frenetic pace of North American cities.

Now, 3 years later, I am integrated and known by all. I have always been safe and protected as my neighbors have a sense that their property values will rise by me successfully owning a house on their hill. Most of my neighbors have renovated and upgraded their homes during my time here. Of all my neighbors, I am most grateful to Rosario Vargas who takes care of my house; cleaning and making sure that when I am out of the country my house is looking good, clean and safe.

While the natural world around San Ramon rivals anyplace in the world, it is connecting with my neighbors and friends that has allowed me to discover the true meaning of Pura Vida.

Ithaca, NY Winter = San Ramon, CR Summer

2008-12-07T11:54:00.011-06:00

I just finished my annual Thanksgiving in the USA. Nice to see family and friends and remember to be grateful for all that I have. The only bummer is the dark, cold winter weather and lack of people on the streets. After 8 years in Costa Rica, my body just doesn't like the winter in Upstate New York.

December starts the summer in Costa Rica. San Ramon temperature remains a comfortable mid-70's year round but summer means the rain has stopped for the months ahead. After months of rain, everything is green and colorful in December. With no daylight savings time, the steady temps are complemented by 12 hours each of daylight and darkness. Easy on the body and spirit.

After a hectic visit to New York State, I'm very ready for the slow, friendly, uncomplicated life I have in Costa Rica. As a former restaurant owner and chef, I look forward to expressing my creativity with the fresh organic fruits and vegetables from my new garden in La Paz.

During the unfolding world economic downturn, San Ramon seems like a good place to be. The last few years have been boom times for foreign travelers and investors in Costa Rica. Unlike the over development at the beach, San Ramon has maintained its own character and economy for over 100 years. I think this will be an interesting time for people everywhere as they re-evaluate their life, plans, and future. Affordable, peaceful, friendly, sunny San Ramon seems like a good life in these uncertain times.

Tomorrow I leave winter and arrive in Costa Rica for the beginning of summer.

The New Economy and San Ramon, Costa Rica

2008-11-08T11:24:00.027-06:00

A new era is beginning. This weeks' United States Presidential election reflected the reality of our challenges, followed by outrage after 8 years of wasted opportunity and finally hope. The folly of living on credit has been exposed. Billions of dollars of personal wealth throughout the world has vaporized over the last few months. Falling real estate values, stocks, retirement accounts, job loss etc. have caused many people to have less.

The houses and property I have bought in San Ramon, Costa Rica have been the best investments I have ever made. The lifestyle they reflect seemed modest compared to the over-the-top lifestyle sought out by many. They now seem smart, healthy and secure. It's hard going against the grain, but at times you must follow your intuition and take the road less traveled.

As we get ready to move into our new house in La Paz, I more fully appreciate my life which is not based on materialism gone wild. I'm thrilled to have no mortgage, $20 a year in taxes and $5 a month phone and electric bills. With no need for heat or air conditioning I'm feeling like I have a small footprint. Behind our house we have an organic vegetable garden as well as bananas, plantanos, avocados, oranges and lemons. My neighbors don't have flat screen TV's, their kids entertain themselves in simple ways, and people's smiles reflect a slower, low stress lifestyle.

Costa Rica, with no military, health care for all and college that is affordable is a country that keeps the poor and middle class secure, healthy and educated. Happiness and balance seem elusive in a hard charging world, but I have learned a lot about life from my San Ramon friends and neighbors. Pura Vida is more than a national motto and I continue to internalize a lifestyle that takes the best from many worlds.

Check out my website www.costaricapm.com for more about San Ramon. It's time to think outside the box since the box has not shown itself to be as strong as promised.

After enjoying Thanksgiving with my family in New York State, I'm looking forward to my next chapter in San Ramon, Costa Rica. One of the cool things is that life in Costa Rica often unfolds differently than planned which keeps you flexible and open ... important qualities in the new world.

My Friend Inez Turns 100

2008-10-08T14:40:00.000-06:00

I wrote a blog a year ago (3 August 2007) about my friend Inez who was 99 years old and amazing. Janet and I went to see her last week. She is now 100. On her birthday, a national newspaper wrote a story about her and the remarkable life she has led.

Inez remembers everything we spoke about months ago including details. Many people half her age wish they had her memory and positive outlook on life.

When we hug, she holds on tight and let’s me know how happy she is to see me. Knowing Inez is an honor.

Living Pura Vida in Costa Rica can help one have a long lifespan. People don’t over think things, are surrounded by family, eat fresh local food and more…..

I’m a lucky guy to be living in San Ramon, Costa Rica for over 7 years and have a friend like Inez to remind me what is important.

Container Homes in Costa Rica

2008-09-24T14:38:00.015-06:00

With the mortgage crisis in the USA, the collapse of Bear Stearns and Lehman Brothers, and a runaway consumer culture…. It is time once again to appreciate that “small is beautiful,” simplicity is a virtue, and living within or below one’s means helps keep life peaceful.

Costa Ricans tend to live in much smaller spaces with many generations together. You don't see baby sitters for kids or senior living for old folks, mostly just families sticking together and taking care of each other. Being alone for long periods of time or living alone is not the ideal.

Last month, The New York Times published an article about small homes gaining popularity in the USA. ("The Next Little Thing")The age of the McMansion requires a lot of $$$$ for heat or air conditioning, maintenance, taxes, mortgage etc. They interviewed some people who had achieved this American Dream and now have simpler aspirations. One of the consequences of having a large home is the isolation in a family as people spend a lot of time in their own spaces with their high tech toys.

My friend Jimmy has an interesting new project that addresses the “small is beautiful” concept. He has taken shipping containers, recycled them and retrofitted the inside as a beautiful, functional home with all the necessary amenities. Jimmy’s container homes have a practical aspect in Costa Rica where many foreigners buy land without homes. It often takes a long time before building and of course you need a place to live before and during construction. Also, there is a lot to learn about your land in a foreign country before you build that can avoid big expensive mistakes later.

Jimmy was my first ex-pat friend in San Ramon and really helped me. When I didn’t speak a word of Spanish and didn’t know the lay of the land, his friendship meant a lot to this stranger in a strange land. We went every weekend to different beaches and he opened his home to me as a place to hang out. We have both seen lots of foreigners come with big dreams yet return to their country of origin when things became tough. We have helped each other over and over to find the humor in situations that could make one crazy and frustrated. Sometimes we let each other rant and rave and sometimes we party until we forget what got us stressed.

To learn more about Jimmy’s container homes look at the property page on our website. (www.costaricapm.com)

Costa Rica Independence Day - September 15

2008-09-15T18:02:00.011-06:00

Today is Costa Rica Independence Day, a festive colorful celebration. San Ramon is rocking with parades, costumes, music and general festivities. On this day in 1821 Costa Rica declared it’s independence from Spain. It is a treat to live in a country that has used it’s independence to create a vibrant democracy with no military, national health care, and education for all. It is neither dominated by a super power nor dominating events in other parts of the world. Pura Vida!

The annual celebration began on Sunday night with a children’s parade. The kids dress up in adorable traditional dress and carry homemade candle lanterns throughout the town. This replicates the scene in 1821 of people walking with lanterns from the Central American capitol in Guatemala to spread the word to Costa Rica and beyond of the declared independence from Spain.

On Monday, there is a larger parade presented by the students to amplify the celebration. The whole town is in the streets which is a beautiful multigenerational scene. I’m sure the nighttime celebration will include lots of drinking, dancing, flirting and more. Ticos know how to party.

Costa Rica has always felt like a country with a lot of personal freedom compared to the USA. Policemen are my friends here whereas they seem more aggressive in the USA. The simple act of drinking a beer in the streets is totally natural here, but would get me arrested in my place of birth. As long as you’re not violent, pretty much anything goes here in terms of personal expression.

I feel very lucky to live in San Ramon, Costa Rica. After 8 years of Bush, it’s hard not to question the direction of the US government both at home and around the world. To go from being dominated to dominating others seems like a weird way to use power.

I wish everyone in the world felt the level of freedom ringing out in Costa Rica today.

My New Home in La Paz

2008-08-18T11:07:00.025-06:00

We just bought our 5th property in San Ramon, Costa Rica. Fortunately, we've sold a few of our properties recently to keep life manageable. We were going to list this property for sale for an 80 year old lady and her son, but one thing led to another and we ended up buying it.

Although it is only 20 minutes from San Ramon center life there feels at least 50 years in the past. Our neighbor uses oxen and a cart to transport his sugar cane harvest and there are more horses, birds, and animals than cars. Our neighbors are mostly from one family and 3 generations have welcomed us warmly.

For us, La Paz is a perfect complement to our home in the city. There is something about the air and vibe that is magical. It is the beginning of the rain forest without the tourists, buses and activity. Some Costa Ricans in the know have quintas/weekend houses there.

Our house has 2 floors, 2 bedrooms and 2 baths which should be good for entertaining and having friends visit. There are avocados, oranges, bananas, plantanos, limons and squash. We will work together with our nearest neighbor Hormidas Arias to recreate an organic garden so that we can grow all our vegetables on our land. As food gets expensive and travels thousands of miles for many, eating all our fruit and vegetables organic from our garden will be healthy and satisfying.

I really did not want to buy another house, but some places are so special. La Paz is one of those special settings that rivals any place I've ever been. As a guy born in NYC, my 8 year journey in San Ramon, Costa Rica continues to amaze me with twists and turns I never expected.

Cost of Living

2008-07-05T16:07:00.014-06:00

I’m heading back to San Ramon tomorrow, July 4th after spending some time in my other home, Ithaca, NY. I’m in NYC at the moment, the ultimate contrast to San Ramon.

When I was growing up in the 1960’s, the United States and NYC was the land of opportunity for working and middle class people. Now the rich are richer and life is challenging for most. Watching the news leaves you with a bleak scenario for the American Dream moving forward.

During this time in the USA, it felt like a scary time economically. The stock market is tanking, gas hit $4+ a gallon, real estate and the banks that made real estate loans seem shaky. Health care is unaffordable and a college education costs 10 times what it did for me in the early ‘70’s.

I feel so lucky to have my life in San Ramon, Costa Rica for many reasons. As energy costs explode, I don’t use heating or air conditioning here and my monthly utility bill is in the $5 range. Virtually all the food I eat is local, excellent quality and either affordable or free. I just read in the NY Times about a restaurant selling a $100 hamburger and $12 for a cocktail is common in NYC. In San Ramon, for $2 I can get a boca of shrimp, fish or whatever. For $5-6, I eat and drink all that I desire.

Recently in San Ramon, I got a flat tire. Richard had it fixed and back on in less than 20 minutes and asked for $2. In my 8 years here, I have developed some strong relationships. I employ people to take care of my property, contractors etc. My staff said I treat them better than others. The $2 an hour they ask for, always includes a heartfelt thank you on my part and theirs. Amazingly, they all own their homes and while homes in the US are going down in value, their homes in San Ramon continue to appreciate significantly. Real estate taxes are negligible and most people own their homes outright with no mortgages. My $5,000 a year real estate taxes in Ithaca are getting harder to afford and services are dwindling. This all contributes to a life in San Ramon that is relatively non-stressful from a financial standpoint for both locals and ex-pats.

One of the things I’m really looking forward to is not driving. Between the cost of gas and the stress on the roads, it will be a pleasure to give up my car for awhile. In San Ramon, walking is social and good exercise. People ride their bikes to and from work. There are buses to every country town near San Ramon for 20-50 cents. An hour ride on the express bus to either San Jose or Puntarenas (nearest Pacific beach) costs about $1.75. Public transportation isn’t as viable an option or affordable an option in many parts of the United States.

So, for me, the American Dream of the past has now transformed to the Pura Vida Costa Rica Dream of the present. With no military and a friendly lifestyle, I am happy to be enjoying the present and not struggling with a dream that is harder to achieve.

Manana, I return to Costa Rica where I’m sure the stress of surviving in the fast expensive US lifestyle will ease as I re-enter my gentler, easier San Ramon way of life.

Renato

2008-05-29T13:00:00.001-06:00

Most people visiting Costa Rica marvel at it's great surfing beaches, volcanos, rainforests, nature etc. Yet, there is another level of beauty. While many people in the USA, or "developed world," are not satisfied though they have SO much; many Ticos exhude a gratefulness for all they have, even those with limited resources. One feels it in the daily life on the streets of San Ramon. People just smile more in San Ramon and move slower through their lives.

Renato is a great San Ramon character. He's an older guy who feels content with less than most people. He says easily, " if I have rice and beans, a pack of smokes, C1000/$2 in my pocket, a tin roof over my head and a water spigot ... I'm happy. " Life can be simpler to enjoy with less possessions to manage.

Renato is scared of doctors and avoids visits if possible. While waiting in the San Ramon hospital in a 1st floor exam room for the doctor to come in, he climbed out the window before the exam claiming he felt much better.

This month's AARP Magazine had an article on lifestyle and longevity. It featured a number of Costa Rican centenarians living healthy to 100.AARP Magazine - Living Healthy to 100

The national expression "Pura Vida" has many definitions. Having a joyful, light Tico lifestyle is one part of it.

I learn a lot about life from many different people and experiences here in San Ramon.

Bajo Caliente - San Juan de San Ramon - Recreation

2008-04-27T07:11:00.008-06:00

One of my favorite places to spend some leisure time in San Ramon is Bajo Caliente. Locals come for many different reasons and the variety of things to do, make it special.

There is a nice swimming pool with a mesh roof for an indoor/outdoor feeling. Weekends and school vacations are busy times. I often go on weekday mornings and it feels like my own private club. There are swimming classes for children and hydro-spinning exercise classes. For people watching and socializing, the grassy hill outside the pool is filled with sexy beautiful people, catching some rays and checking each other out.

Bajo Caliente also has a soccer field. Local teams and friends rent the field for weekly games. Their friends and family cheer them on and make a nice scene.

The bar / restaurant is one of the largest in San Ramon. It is covered but open air with people of all ages. They serve bocas, small plates of food for about C1000/$2. Their wood fired roast chicken is one of the specialties along with cerviche, shrimp, fish and more.

The owner, Luis and his sons make this a family run business. Luis spent a few years in the USA working in Orlando and the Hamptons. Like many Costa Rican’s, he worked hard in the USA, saving most of his dollars to create a business in Costa Rica. While you hear so much about immigrants in the USA, Costa Ricans have a different take. The lifestyle in the USA is too fast, expensive and cold for most Ticos. They prefer to take their money home and lead a Pura Vida lifestyle with some capital for a house or business.

Bajo Caliente is a great part of my San Ramon lifestyle. It is located 5 minutes from the center of town in the community of San Juan.

ICE - Costa Rica Telephone and Electric Service

2008-04-17T17:35:00.004-06:00

In Costa Rica, the government has a monopoly for providing telephone and electric service. It has pros and cons and there is much debate on this changing in the future.

On the pro end, it is very affordable for everyone to have the basic services. My monthly bills are about $6 a month each for telephone and electric in my home. In the USA, my minimum can be 10 times this amount. This is a great thing to have inexpensive access for all. Universal access can also be seen in health care and higher education which is clearly not the case in the USA

The other side of government monopoly is it might take a month or even years to get phone service in some areas. The ongoing experience at an ICE office are long lines and not always the best customer service. High speed internet is rolling out very slowly in much of Costa Rica. Also, international calls are much more expensive from Costa Rica than from the USA. Thank God for Skype as a free or very cheap alternative for global communication.

On March 20 of this year, there was an overhaul of the phone system. The standard seven-digit phone number was changed to eight. A 2 is now added at the beginning of seven-digit landlines and an 8 before seven-digit cell phone numbers. The area code for all of Costa Rica is still 506 and the country code is 011. This has caused much confusion and frustration over the past month. I wondered if this was a plot by printing companies since business cards, stationary and signs all needed the phone numbers corrected.

For me the inexpensive basic services are a great thing and allow me to live in Costa Rica very affordably. In addition, there is a lesson somewhere in the need for patience and not being able to get instant anything here. Living a simple basic life is the way to go in Costa Rica.

Our Second Coffee Harvest in El Empalme San Ramon

2008-03-28T10:11:00.013-06:00

As someone who has spent most of his life in cities and college towns, it remains an unexpected turn to own an organic coffee and fruit farm. These are THE crops of Costa Rica and before tourism and foreign investment became such a powerful part of the economy, coffee and bananas ruled.

My farm in El Empalme has an amazing ocean view and the sunset in the Pacific is an inspiring experience. El Empalme is one of the highest altitudes in the area making it ideal for coffee farming. It is also part of Costa Rican history. During the revolution that formed the modern Costa Rican state, El Empalme was where the rebels gained their strategic advantage over the government troops below due to its long views both towards Puntarenas and the Central Valley. A former Costa Rican President and San Ramon’s most famous citizen Jose Figueres had a weekend home in El Empalme. Figueres was an intellectual leader and one of the many architects of the modern Costa Rica who considered San Ramon their home. The elimination of the military, health care and education for all, and a stable democracy have roots in San Ramon.

Our farm produces just enough coffee for our own consumption and some to give away. The shade plants for the coffee are bananas, plantanos, limons and other fruit trees. Coffee is harvested once a year between December and February depending on the specific location. This is plenty to keep track of for me but there are many coffee farms in the area that are significant businesses.

Our friend Martin Rodriguez roasts the coffee for us at his farm in Bolivar. He can be seen selling his coffee most weekends at the San Ramon farmers market. I feel most grateful to Ivania, our El Empalme neighbor, who helps take care of most aspects of the farm for us.

We have a small farmhouse on the property, nicely oriented to the view. We hope to renovate it during July and August. Our goal is to retain it’s traditional nature while making it a comfortable living space.

Life is full of surprises and my farm in El Empalme has been one of the more unexpected chapters in my recent life.

Where the Streets Have No Name ....and the Houses Have No Numbers

2008-03-18T19:55:00.003-06:00

In San Ramon, and most of Costa Rica (except San Jose), the streets have no names and the houses have no numbers. It makes asking directions and finding places comical and a true adventure. Every location is identified as a certain number of meters from a known landmark. In the era of Big Brother, the Costa Rican address system feels protective of your privacy and anonymity but also slow, impractical and difficult.

As an answer to my question for directions, a person will come outside and say something like … go to the big tree and then go 180 meters, make a left and when you see an old man in a chair on his porch go 50 meters and you are there. Also, people use references of store names that have changed years ago and impossible for the novice to know. But of course everyone is really helpful, smiling and friendly.

Police in San Ramon are friends and neighbors and clearly not looking for conflict. They don’t keep their hands on their pistols or look over their shoulders. They can be seen in the park, shaking hands, riding their bicycles and hanging out. Asking the Police for information has led to many fun conversations and developing friendships. Police interaction feels much different and lighter in San Ramon.

Many aspects of life in San Ramon bear little resemblance to my former life. The good news is it’s often filled with more laughs and new friends.

My Vacation in the Snow

2008-03-04T17:46:00.013-06:00

It was time to take a short break out of Costa Rica. We landed at JFK in NYC at 2AM just as a major snowstorm was materializing. We were one of the last flights that landed. Wow! After leaving the 70's and sunny San Ramon. Contrast.

There was 9 inches of snow in the NYC area as we drove a rental car to Ithaca at 3AM. The good news was there were few cars on the road; the bad news was that we couldn't see much of the road as the snow was piling up. It all ended well as we arrived in Ithaca after our 9 hour drive that normally takes 5 hours.

It's been fun being in Ithaca and we're heading for a few days in NYC. Back to Costa Rica on Friday after 2 weeks vacationing in NYS. I loved reading the NY Times, eating Chinese, Thai and Pizza and seeing friends and family. pero/but it's been very cold and snowy. People are mostly in their houses or cars ... not much street life.

We are flying back on Taca (www.taca.com) which feels better than flying with the majors. On our flight here, they gave us a nice dinner, free liquor and free headsets for movies. Taca flights offer good leg room and good price. To accomplish this, Taca often flys at extreme times, very early or very late. It's worth checking out if you're flying to/from one of their hubs.

I'm ready to go back to San Ramon and settle into my life; the swimming pool, bars and restaurants, and back to my simple but nice life.

Postscript: I have been back in San Ramon for 24 hours and I’m embraced by the friendliness on the street, relaxed by the sunny mild weather, relieved by the inexpensive cost of living …. and amused to watch my mind and body so flexible and tranquilo.

Puerto Viejo - The Other Side of Costa Rica

2008-02-21T18:29:00.016-06:00

Here in San Ramon, people live by the wisdom of living in the mild weather of the Central Valley and vacationing at the beach. Most locals and tourists visit the Pacific beaches such as Samara, Jaco, Tamarindo or Manuel Antonio but the Caribbean beaches are a whole other experience … and worth the trip.

The Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica is not Latin, but rather settled by Black and Indigenous peoples. Much of the Caribbean feels like a different country with a culture and vibe in contrast to the typical Tico lifestyle in the rest of Costa Rica. Even the language is different with many locals speaking a Creole version of English, rather than Spanish. At the mid-point between the large port city of Limon and the Panama border to the south is Puerto Viejo, a laid-back beach town that lacks the megabuck development of the Guanacaste Pacific Coast. The lack of large-scale development, does not necessarily mean inexpensive (for Costa Rica), but the scale remains small and personal.

To make our trip to Puerto Viejo a real vacation, we left our car home and took the bus to mix with the other travelers. The bus from San Jose costs about $7.50 for the 4-5 hour trip, a bargain no matter how you look at it. Puerto Viejo is a walkable town so a car is not needed once you arrive. (www.puertoviejo.net)

I was amazed by the changes in the 5 years since my last visit. Northern Europeans (German, Dutch, Swedish etc.) have bought many of the small businesses and make up an extraordinary large percentage of the visitors. Part of the color of the town has been lost, but it is still a cool place, full of surfers and young world travelers enjoying the lifestyle and natural beauty.

We stayed at Cabinas Agapi (www.agapisite.com), which is perfectly situated oceanfront just at the edge of town near Cocles Beach, which is THE beach in Puerto Viejo. Rooms and apartments are between $50 and $120 depending on the size and amenities. For the budget traveler, Rocking J (www.rockingjs.com) seemed like a fun choice and is also beachfront. For $12 you can rent a tent on a 2nd floor platform with a mattress, pillows and sheets. It attracts a young crowd and is a good place to meet people.

There are loads of restaurants and bars, which can be discovered by just walking the small village of Puerto Viejo. Bread and Chocolate is a favorite with excellent breakfasts, desserts and snacks. Chile Rojo is another good choice for people watching, cocktails and creative fusion meals.

Playa Cocles is the beach of beauty and enjoyment in Puerto Viejo. Because of the coral formations, the beaches near the center of town are not suitable for swimming or surfing. Most people walk the pleasant shaded trail from the village center and the 10-15 minute walk is well worth it. Surfers, swimmers and sunbathers hardly make a dent in the space and it is surprisingly open and uncrowded even in high season. The heat of the beach is best enjoyed in the morning and late afternoon while limiting your exposure to the sun in the heat of the day.

Those seeking more nature or adventure can explore the nearby town of Cahuita and the Cahuita National Park, or travel down the coast to the Panama Border. If you are in Costa Rica for more than 10 days, the Caribbean coast is worth a visit. If you are planning a shorter trip, make the Caribbean your primary focus.

I loved my vacation. The heat, beaches and the tourist scene were great for a few days. It was a real break and contrast from my life in San Ramon. After 2 nights in Puerto Viejo, I was ready to return to my Tico life. They say one great part of going away is appreciating your home. When I saw the familiar faces on the San Ramon bus and felt the cooler breezes as we got close to home, my face lit up with joy and pride to live in a very special place.

Costa Rica Real Estate... San Ramon Style

2008-02-01T13:37:00.000-06:00

While the economy has become more global in nature, real estate tends to reflect more local factors. The news from the U.S. is dominated by foreclosures, the subprime mortgage mess and home values plunging in many areas. Costa Rica on the other hand has a booming real estate market with strong demand as the world discovers this special country.

Until recently most of the boom was at the beach, especially the Guanacaste region on the Pacific Ocean and suburbs of San Jose like Escazu. The prices there started to look more like those in the developed world with little local culture to speak of. English and dollars became predominant and the international scene seemed like it could have been in any number of continents or countries.

This is my 7th year living in San Ramon and when I got here, I could count the number of English speakers around town on one hand. Having experienced every part of Costa Rica and every country in Central America, this Central Valley town clearly won my heart. In the last year or so, San Ramon has begun to be discovered by an increasing number of international seekers looking for the perfect place to invest and call home.

There are many reasons for the recent attention being paid to San Ramon. San Ramon has a rich history as the home of many of the architects of the modern Costa Rican state as well as the home of 4 former presidents. We have a good hospital, a branch of the University of Costa Rica, pure mountain water, and mild year-round weather. Being less than an hour from the SJO Airport and the Pacific, San Ramon’s central location is a real asset. And … it’s still quite affordable.

After years of mild real estate demand, prices have just begun to go up fueled by foreign investors. They come for the small city atmosphere that is friendly yet full of activity. And they come for the natural beauty. Just 10 minutes from the center of town there are sweeping ocean views, lush green mountains, and farms with fruit and coffee. After a vacation at Jaco, Tamarindo, Manuel Antonio etc., San Ramon is a breath of fresh air as a potential hometown.

In recent months, our company Paradise Management www.costaricapm.com has sold property to buyers from Europe, India, Central America and North America. The newest Ramonense (locals) have been welcomed by this warm community and are excited to have found an authentic interesting slice of Costa Rica.

I have often gone to beautiful places and said I wish I had bought a house or land years earlier before the boom. This time ... no 20/20 hindsight. I have come to the right place at the right time. I got a little carried away and bought 4 properties. With the weakening dollar, volatile stock market, and sinking yet expensive U.S. real estate… San Ramon property seems like a safe smart move.

The most striking thing of it is … it’s a wonderful place to live in an often crazy world.

Watching the NFL Playoffs and Super Bowl in Costa Rica

2008-01-22T10:48:00.000-06:00

In Costa Rica there is only one sport … soccer/futbol. So, watching the NFL is an exotic mysterious thing for Ticos. For me, and a very small group of friends, it is a pleasure when it is time for the NFL playoffs and Super Bowl. Here’s an idea of what it’s like…

Last Saturday, after a hard day of working, I went home to watch the Patriots and Jaguars game but things don’t always turn out as planned. When I arrived home and popped a beer, I discovered that my cable was not working and there was zero reception. I assumed it was out only in my house or neighborhood so we raced into town to watch the game at Club d’Amigos only to learn when I arrived that cable was out in the entire city of San Ramon… Bummer!! My friend Fito and the other old men at the bar convinced us that the only thing to do was have a few drinks, relax and enjoy the night. At halftime, the cable suddenly returned and it ended up being a very cool night. We watched the second half at the Club, explaining the rules and strategies of American Football to the dozen or so Club regulars. We drank a few Guaros, snacked on fresh cerviche … and ended up having a blast.

Yesterday was the Giants (Los Gigantes) and the Packers playoff game to see who goes to the Super Bowl. A tradition for years, I went to my friend Jimmy’s house to watch the game with Janet, Jimmy, Graciela (Jimmy’s girlfriend) and Ralph, the German tennis teacher. In Green Bay, where the game was being played, it was 24 below with the wind chill factor. We lounged in San Ramon in a perfect 75-degree day, not at all jealous of the fans at the stadium. After the pre-game show broadcast from the U.S., the announcing shifted to a Spanish broadcast from Mexico…not what we were hoping for. We were all hoping for a John Madden commentary, but instead got a couple of guys from Mexico and Spanish commentary. We had to adjust. When the Packers had a long touchdown pass, the announcer declared, “vuelta la tortilla” (flip the tortilla) to convey the momentum change. It was comical, not insightful and different.

Living in Costa Rica is often a test of how open you can be to the twists and turns in your plans. I love watching the NFL and after 7 seasons here, I still don’t know what to expect. From the cable system being down to a shift to a Spanish feed from Mexico ... anything can happen.

Most importantly, I had fun with my friends ... new and old … and didn’t have to be in the sub-zero weather in many parts of the USA. And … the drinks only cost a buck here.

It is 2 weeks to Super Bowl 2008, Patriots vs. Giants … I will make plans for the game, but I’m sure it will turn into a different day than I expected. This aspect of Tico life keeps you humble, flexible and open to unexpected joys in your day-to-day life.

My Old Fashioned Barber Shop

2008-01-08T16:15:00.001-06:00

In the USA, I often hear people lamenting the closing of small personal businesses as corporations make it hard to compete. Once a way of life has passed, it will probably never return.

As a boy in Brooklyn, NY, I remember going to the barbershop on Nostrand Ave. with my father, a classic bonding experience. The old barbers, Augie, Noah and Mooney would ply their trade and men and boys shared the ritual. This is before unisex shops, $100 haircuts and hip stylists.

Here in San Ramon unisex shops and high style are easy to find. I prefer the old fashioned barbershop …… where masters Pibo and Paco have cut hair for decades. The estrogen free zone has big leather barber chairs and wood floors. The atmosphere is right out of the 50’s or early 60’s with no hint of modern life. They use long straight razors for shaves with nice warm lather. They use their scissors with confidence. There is no music playing and no hint of the world outside. When they put you all the way back in the chair, it feels like all your worries drop away. It is an experience, not just a haircut.

Money is money and everybody needs some, but quality of life, connection, and simple rituals bring peace of mind. Life is a journey to find a balance that works. Everybody’s formula is different. Having money and things is a part of the mix, but cannot substitute for things that are missing.

Immersing myself in the culture here in San Ramon has taught me many life lessons that have made my life better. There are no black and white answers… just a never-ending exploration.

My trip to the barbershop every 2 weeks for a beard trim and haircut is a nice part of the journey.

Christmas = Summer in San Ramon, Costa Rica

2007-12-17T19:45:00.001-06:00

While there’s something charming about a white Christmas, it’s way overrated. I barely escaped a week of snow and ice storms in Upstate NY to return to the mild weather and festive Latino scene here in San Ramon.

San Ramon welcomed us back as family and our neighbors and friends shout their greetings as we walk the streets of San Ramon. After 6+ years here, I feel accepted as a Ramonenese (San Ramon person) and more like a visitor in my home of origin.

This year all the trees in the central park are decorated with lights as local businesses each adopted and outfitted a tree to decorate and make a beautiful nighttime glow in the center of town.

Last week, cultural festivities kicked off with a performance in the big Church of Handel’s Messiah by The Costa Rica National Symphony and National Chorus. Although this isn’t my kind of music, the acoustics were awesome and a good time was had by all. Like many cultural events here, it was free and open to all supported by the Ministry of Culture. When a society doesn’t support an Army and war… music, art and theater can be funded and given to the people.

As a former restaurant owner and cook, my first shop at the farmer’s market/feria makes me feel settled into my life here. For between $7-8 we bought the best fruit and vegetables money could buy at any price. Bill Gates could not get healthier and tastier food than this! At 10 times the price in New York State, the taste comparison would be a joke. Papaya, pineapple, bananas, spinach, broccoli, peppers, carrots, onions, garlic, tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage, cilantro, limons, fresh cheese, coffee and more … will become a bounty of delicious meals. The Friday and Saturday market is also a cool mixing of all strata of San Ramon and the interaction with the local farmers is a great way to mark another week. Of course a bottle of Guaro (the local liquor) and a few beers will add inspiration in the kitchen.

To enjoy the festivities, exercise keeps this 52 year old energized and light. We go to the outdoor swimming pool on a regular basis to keep fit and indulge guilt free in food and drink. The pool was built for a national competition some years ago and donated to the City of San Ramon.

At the pool only half the people swim; the other half are women just catching the rays with lots of skin hanging out. Whether you’re male or female, it’s hard not to be blown away by how beautiful and sexy the women are here in San Ramon. The Latinas present themselves in a way that hardly resembles the intellectual, sweatshirt clad females in my Ivy League first world home. It’s impossible not to notice and be inspired to keep returning to exercise in the pool.

Happy holiday season to all! Maybe I’ll see you here in San Ramon to share summer. I’ll return in April for a spring visit to Ithaca NY to see friends and family. This rhythm seems to be working well.

Reverse Blog ... Ithaca, NY ... Winter Wonderland!

2007-12-07T15:00:00.000-06:00

I will be heading back to summertime in San Ramon, Costa Rica in a few days. My tradition for the last 8 years has been to spend Thanksgiving with friends and family in Ithaca and NYC and then leave as winter begins. Each place has much to offer, but the cold, darkness and snow are better to be enjoyed from a distance.

My house in Ithaca is ready for winter. My tenants, Cristian and Josh, allow me to feel mostly burden free when I am gone. I live in the City of Ithaca in the Fall Creek neighborhood, just 2 blocks from Ithaca Falls, a monstrous natural wonder. Winter is funny as ice formations shine while the water flows loudly.

Downtown Ithaca had a festival this week with huge ice sculptures on display. Activities like this get people to come out of their houses and forget how cold it really is. I love my friends and neighbors here but from my perspective, it seems crazy to spend 4 months isolated, freezing etc. when summer is beginning in San Ramon.

I am returning to summer in San Ramon with kids on vacation until mid-February. Families are taking vacations at the beach. Most importantly, the rains have stopped and endless sunny days in the mid 70's await me.

I'm looking forward to buying loads of fruits and vegetables at the farmers market and eating healthy, local and light. We will swim daily in the outdoor pool downtown and top off the day at a bar/restaurant for some drinks and dinner. Reverse sticker shock is a treat as everything seems so inexpensive compared to the USA, Canada or Europe.

Somehow I smile and laugh more and life has a simplicity that gives me a healthy perspective. I'm ready to return to my Costa Rica home and hear the birds and sounds of the cool Costa Rican street life.

If the snow doesn't limit our travel plans, I should be home in San Ramon very shortly.

Our (Quasi) Secret Hot Springs

2007-11-14T11:04:00.002-06:00

My friend Jimmy, Janet and I all realize we have to keep some things a bit of a secret. While my recent blog shared Playa Samara as our favorite beach and 2-3 day excursion from San Ramon ... the hot springs is our most popular day trip and even better overnight stay. We talk about our favorite hot springs and while we enjoy sharing it with newcomers, we also don't want it to get over commercialized and overrun.

Just an 1 1/2 hour drive from San Ramon, near Ciudad Quesada, is this magical and relaxing place. I have visited about 15-20 times in the last 6+ years. After checking in, you hike about 10 minutes down through the jungle on a stone path and on handmade bridges until you hit the pools. The setting, the hike and the water immediately slow down your mind and relax your body. Within minutes, aches and pains are gone and you feel fresh and clean.

The hot springs consist of 5-6 different areas each one successively hotter than the last. The pools are in a natural setting of forest plants and trees carefully developed and maintained by one family for decades. The hot springs are open from 7AM until 9:30PM . I think it's best to catch both the day and the night. The sounds change and the experience shifts when the sun goes down.

There are drinks and cerviche available at the springs. But, after sitting in the springs for hours, driving home the same day breaks the mood so an overnight is recommended. The restaurant up by the rooms is excellent. We love the Corvina -Sea Bass with garlic sauce (under $6) after a long day of soaking. They literally blow the flavor out the exhaust of the restaurant and we've never been disappointed. In the morning, there is a complimentary breakfast which includes fruit, gallo pinto, eggs, and coffee. The service is friendly and welcoming.

There are a few well known (and more expensive) hot springs near La Fortuna and Arenal Volcano. Among these are Tabacon Resort (www.tabacon.com), Baldi (www.arenal.net/baldi-hot-springs.htm) and others. Tabacon is beautifully tiled, landscaped and requires little walking. I find what is gained in comfort takes away from the powerful natural environment and few locals consider this a native experience. For less than the price of daily admission for two at Tabacon, we get a hotel room, great breakfast, dinner and 2 days at the springs.

So with a little bit of research, we hope the people who will really appreciate this special place will find it. It's hard not to feel the power of our (quasi) secret hot springs.

My Personal Funny Globalization Anecdote

2007-10-24T15:34:00.004-06:00

I don’t consider myself a funny person but in San Ramon, making people smile and laugh is held in higher regard than showing how smart or knowledgeable you are.

The other day my Chinese friend Kenneth asked us to take a look at a property he owns and try to help him sell it. Kenneth speaks no English (although he plays excellent English music at his bar Sol Naciente) and I speak no Chinese. Our mini global group got in the car and Kenneth and I did the talking … him speaking Spanish with a Chinese accent while I spoke Spanish with my North American one.

My San Ramon friend who was with us couldn’t stop laughing at the 2 of us. He said listening to the 2 of us speaking our non – native Spanish, was hilarious and surreal. He said he had never heard a Spanish conversation quite like the one between Kenneth and I.

In this Globalizing world, you have to just dive in and connect with different people with whatever tools you have in common. I’m sure there would be less conflict in this crazy world if people just tried to communicate in their imperfect ways. As the world gets smaller, laughter between people from diverse cultures is a step in the right direction.

On a recent trip to Ithaca, NY I had the good fortune to see and hear the Dalai Lama. One of his main messages was that national borders have become obsolete and that “we are all brothers and sisters.”

Bargain Airfares to Costa Rica

2007-10-06T06:42:00.001-06:00

While most of my blogs are about the people and places of San Ramon and Costa Rica, the first step to discovering Costa Rica is getting there. I just got an email from American Airlines with some of the best fares I have ever seen. As of yesterday, there were still seats available for travel between October 1st and December 6th from many U.S. destinations at these crazy round trip prices, not including taxes:
Newark to San Jose, Costa Rica at $188.00
Orlando To San Jose, Costa Rica at $148.00
Washington, D.C. to San Jose, Costa Rica at $209.00

Follow this link to the American Airlines website for more information on the Costa Rican air fares sale: www.aa.com

And when you land in Costa Rica, come visit us in San Ramon.... Follow this link for directions:
www.costaricapm.com

Pura Vida and hopefully I'll see you soon in San Ramon, Costa Rica.

Samara Beach.....Playa Samara

2007-09-06T08:34:00.001-06:00

While many foreigners are buying up land and houses at the beach, my San Ramon friends always share their wisdom of living in San Ramon (the mountains) and vacationing at the beach. There is some special connection between Samara and San Ramon for many Ramonense (San Ramon folks). Many families from San Ramon also have houses at Samara and the standard joke is during Christmas or Semana Santa you can find more of your friends in Samara than at home in San Ramon. After experiencing over 50 Costa Rican beaches, Samara is still my favorite one to spend a few days.

While there's much more of a scene in Tamarindo and Jaco, I prefer vacationing in Samara.

The opening a few years back of a new bridge has shortened the ride and in 3-3.5 hours, I'm in a different world...a beautiful one. While development has overwhelmed many of the Pacific beaches, Samara retains much of it's magic even though you can see the development emerging on all the hillsides.

Luckily, we've made friends with locals who rent us a 1-BRM oceanfront apartment for a very reduced rate. This starts us off right with the constant sounds of the waves, a breeze, and a nice outside sitting area to eat drink and take in the expanse of the Pacific. Two hotels I'd recommend are Casa Valeria if you're on a budget and the new Treehouse Inn if you can splurge a little. They are both oceanfront which makes the time in Samara more dramatic and inspiring. A block from the beach the heat is intense and not the same sense of magic.

Samara is a beautiful crescent white sand beach, the perfect distance to walk it's entirety. If it's morning or afternoon stop at Restaurant Sheriff for breakfast or a refreshing smoothie. This simple beachfront spot is a great place to take in the scene and feels like the unofficial center of town.

The beach is filled with surfers, mostly beginners learning to ride. Beaches like Malpais/Santa Teresa at the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula seem to attract more experienced surfers, but it looked like a smiling group of learners. I prefer to just bounce up and down in the waves and ride them in when the right wave comes along. There is a natural joy playing in the waves....it reminds me of the carefree summer days at the Atlantic beaches of my Brooklyn youth.

Walking the beach at sunset is THE daily ritual that shapes my open schedule. There is a daily soccer/futbal game on the beach which is fun to check out. The SUN is strong in the middle of the day so be careful and make sure to use sunscreen and cover up ..... The middle of the day is a great time to get lost in a good book in a shady location with a cold drink.

Going out at night for dinner after sunset and maybe a drink at bar Las Olas afterwards completes my mellow days at the beach. Although most restaurants are much more expensive than my meals in San Ramon, I enjoy the variety and it's part of being at the beach. Many of the restaurants are on the street leading down to the beach. Shekina Restaurant is a new choice and a good one with enthusiastic owners, good food and a pleasant outdoor dining area. If you're looking for a change from Costa Rican fare try the Italian restaurant in Hotel Giada. The pizzas and pastas are very good and the Italian owners have done a good job here for many years.

I've taken my mother, sister, girlfriend and others to Samara and they all smile when they reflect on their experience. As we drive back to San Ramon, I feel satiated with sun and sea. When the first cooler breezes hit me as we near San Ramon, I feel grateful for my 3 days at the beach and happy to be returning to my home in San Ramon.

Go to the Samara Beach website for contact information and listings www.samarabeach.com

Enjoy!

My Favorite and Only 99 Year Old Friend

2007-08-03T20:11:00.000-06:00

Wow! Great Great Grandma Inez just celebrated her 99th birthday. She has 5 generations all around her and stands about 4ft. 9 inches of beauty. In this era of botox and plastic surgery, her wrinkles are her loveliness and her mind is 100% clear. She enjoys Janet and my visits and when she hugs us, she holds on and doesn’t let go.

While seniors in the USA live in retirement communities, assisted living and nursing homes, Inez lives in the same neighborhood where she grew up in downtown San Ramon. Women are the glue in Costa Rican culture with Mommies the stars, Inez is a matriarch for the ages. She told me she has 6 children, 22 grandchildren, 45 great grandchildren and 2 great great grandkids. The childless 52-year old man that I am stands amazed … I guess the 2 of us balance out populating the planet in some wild way. As we hung out on her porch, lots of family walked by composing many generations shouting their affection.

Both of my dead grandmothers were born in 1900 and lived until 95. I could feel my grandmas Sonia and Rachel’s energy nearby when I visit with Inez.

Inez’s sister is still alive at 105 and lives directly across the street. She swears that drinking Guaro every day is her secret. (Guaro is a clear liquor made from sugar cane and is the national drink of Costa Rica in the same way that tequila is the drink of Mexico.) I have a few shots myself every day and it has helped me retain a Pura Vida Costa Rica vision of life for the last 6 years.

Inez somehow went to the University of Costa Rica to discover a bigger world, rare for a woman of her time. She became a teacher and taught in El Empalme for forty years, which strangely is where I have my organic coffee farm. She rode a horse 45 minutes every day to get to work while I make the 8-minute drive on a regular basis. She earned 75 Colones a month as a teacher. That was when Colones had real value!!! (The current exchange rate is about 500 Colones for $1.) 5 Colones isn’t worth squat today, but then it was paper money rather than a worthless coin.

Her husband was part of the Costa Rican Revolution in the 1940’s whose leaders were from San Ramon. As she shared her story, an alcoholic female neighbor passed by and Inez went in the house to get a loaf of bread to give her and said her style is to still try to help everyone when she can. I jokingly asked her if she had a boyfriend these days but she told me she didn’t want the obligation.

Her vision is fairly simple. If you have enough food to eat, your health and family around you … it’s reason to be happy and not obsess on more complex desires. This joy has consistently revealed itself to me in San Ramon while in the richest country in the World, people often focus on what they don’t have.

Inez is a beautiful woman/person in every way and I’m proud to call her my friend. It’s pretty easy for me to whine about what I wish was different. A visit to my 99-year old friend Inez, keeps life in a healthy perspective.

My 7th Winter (6 years) in San Ramon, Costa Rica

2007-07-13T10:57:00.000-06:00

Winter is clearly a relative global concept. Here in San Ramon, winter means temperatures in the 70’s …. fresco. After 25 years of New York State winters … snow, freezing temps, days without sunlight … I’ll take this anytime.

Without freezing temperatures and extreme swings of light and darkness, there are 2 seasons in San Ramon with little variance of hot and cold. There is basically 12 hours a day of both daylight and darkness year-round. The winter is characterized by a few hours a day of rain most afternoons….while summer has months at a time of sunny days with no rain.

My Ithaca, NY life has darkness at 4:30PM in December and 9PM in July which puts a real strain on my body and emotions. I feel healthy and balanced here. My summer visits to Ithaca, NY are now totally exhausting by 8PM and I try to avoid winter visits for obvious reasons.

Many Ticos prefer the winter season here as everything is lush and intensely green with plants and other species boldly alive. For travelers, it’s a good time with fewer tourists, lower prices and less competition for hotels and other activities.

The winter strategy of locals is to wake up early, wash and hang your laundry by 8AM and then proceed with your errands and other outside projects. When it starts to rain at 2 or 3PM, it’s time to go home and take a nap to the sounds of the raindrops hitting your roof. Very peaceful … tranquilo.

When the rain stops, there is electricity and freshness in the air. I don’t know how to quantify it but the evening air is charged and inviting. Time to change into your nicer evening clothes and join your friends at Rincon Poeta (www.sanramon-costarica.com) or another favorite restaurant.

It is a joyful experience to see my friends and neighbors and enjoy drinks and dinner together in San Ramon centro. San Ramon has retained the local boca (small plates) style of eating, which helps me not gain weight. For between $1 and $2, I can enjoy fish, chicken or shrimp and salad. Janet and I rarely spend more than $10 for all the guaro, beer and bocas we desire.

Tomorrow … Another Day In Paradise.

Guide to San Ramon

2007-06-20T07:45:00.001-06:00

Check out my new Guide to San Ramon's hotels, restaurants, shops and things to do and see. Here is the link:
www.sanramon-costarica.com

The World is Flat

2007-05-17T10:05:00.001-06:00

Living here in Costa Rica in Spanish allows me to be right in the Tico culture. It also tires me out by the end of the day. Like many ex-pats, having some great reads in English is a nice relaxing treat. As a New York Times devotee for most of my life, I easily devoured The World is Flat by Times writer Thomas Friedman.

I recommend The World is Flat as a must read for anybody wanting a big life that sees the possibility to utilize the whole world no matter where you are geographically. People no longer have to be in the same location to share information and collaborate. You no longer have to be a huge corporation to have an impact on people all over the world. An individual person's creativity allows growth, not just the amount of money one throws at a situation. This book basically describes our International life and the life of a blogger (as well as many other situations).

What a different world. I guess I'm old as I can remember living in a world without the internet and cell phones. When I traveled in Europe at the age of 17 in 1972, I used to mail aerograms to family and friends. They took about 10 days to arrive and were totally obsolete by the time they did. In a way, my travels in the 70's allowed me to really remain in my experience.... cut off from my familiar world....but in another way, the reality of living in Costa Rica is much easier now. I can keep in touch with family and friends, do business with internet banking, etc...

It's been amazing and fun for me to have readers from all the continents.... 25+ countries and growing. There was the nice note from Australia from a woman who had the same magical feelings as me about San Ramon a decade ago. She googled the bar/club Secretos and ended up on our blog and website www.costaricapm.com.

The funniest and biggest contrast was seeing that we have at least 1 reader in Baghdad. San Ramon and Costa Rica, a country without an army could clearly be the ultimate fantasy for someone living the violent insane life that exists in Iraq. It would be a total pleasure to find a home for someone in San Ramon after they survived the war in Iraq.

Life no longer needs to be a black and white choice of one thing or another but can be your own melange of what works for you. Enjoy the book, The World is Flat, and more importantly enjoy opening up your mind to how rich and global your life can be.

Drinking The First Organic Coffee From Our Farm

2007-04-29T08:59:00.001-06:00

It still seems way outside probability that I would ever own an organic coffee farm in Costa Rica. From my roots in Brooklyn and Ithaca NY, this has been a long journey in many ways.

This year, we have over 50 lbs. of coffee to enjoy and share with friends and family. We've been told a few hundred pounds of coffee is just a few harvests away.We turned the farm organic this year, lessening our yield while we learned about the plants and trees on our hillside acre. The banana, plantano, limon, orange, mango and other trees are trimmed and next year we should have a larger coffee yield and make better use of the fruit which shades the coffee.

The good news...the quality of our coffee is excellent. We brought our picked coffee to my friend Martin Rodriquez who is both an organic coffee farmer and also has a small roasting operation. Whereas with the San Ramon Coop, which mixes coffee beans from many local farms, Martin could keep all our beans separate and it is always fun hanging with Martin. Martin roasted it a little darker than normal as we discussed and the flavor is excellent with hints of chocolate and a rich full body.

Brewing our first crop of coffee from our farm has been a daily treat.

Our farm has the highest altitude coffee in El Empalme. It is a classic pueblo, with a school, church and very simple way of life. Our neighbors rarely seem stressed and have taught me a lot in terms of prorities and what's important.

While we enjoy our coffee, our people are working at the farm to make it an even better place in the future.

Life's a trip. You just gotta make room for what life might bring your way.... even the improbable possibilities.

Riteve : Costa Rica Car Inspection

2007-04-13T21:00:00.000-06:00

Costa Rica has a national system of annual car inspection called Riteve. Having a current Riteve sticker allows you to drive confidently and legally. It is a common experience which makes me feel like I really live here. Both of our 2 experiences at Riteve were weird and notable.

While many people think moving to Costa Rica is about living in a country with no army, ecotourism, seeing lava at Volcano Arenal, surfing at Malpais/Santa Teresa or doing the canopy tour at Monteverde ..... getting your car inspected is more indicative of day to day Costa Rica life.

The process starts out impressively smooth and logical as you make your Riteve appointment on the internet choosing place, date and time. We did our first inspection in Alajuela. They said our emissions didn't pass the test, but that was the least of our issues. By the time we had worked our way through the inspectors' paces, one of the technicians destroyed our brakes. We had to drive home using the handbrake to stop. Last week, we decided to go to the Puntarenas Riteve for our second inspection. This time an inspector destroyed a line that held the car's power steering fluids. We drove home with the steering wheel barely working. On a better note, a technician allowed us to re-do one of the tests 5 times until we finally passed.

In a different culture I might have complained or written a letter to right the wrong. That seemed like a waste of time here.

Many people pay someone to take their car for inspection. I'm beginning to see the wisdom of not going through this process.

Once again patience and a sense of humor are a virtue in navigating aspects of Tico life.

Cerveza, por favor...Gracias!!!

House Construction and Renovation in San Ramon, Costa Rica

2007-03-23T12:27:00.000-06:00

Building or renovating a house in Costa Rica is a wild adventure, a very different process than a non-native might expect. Janet and I are pleased and proud to be nearing the completion of the renovations to our house in El Empalme, just outside San Ramon.

The community of El Empalme, with possibly the best ocean views in the San Ramon area and it’s friendly people, has been a fabulous discovery that has been the source of many joys and an equal amount of lessons.When we found this house, we knew this was a special site. The near total renovation put us through many highs and lows.

After one year and some false starts with more than one contractor, we found our crew: Christopher, Guillermo, Jose Angel, and Victor. From that point on, things rocked on all fronts. Our crew did great work and together we created a fun work environment with trust and respect in all directions.

The house is looking and feeling great. Check out our listings page at www.costaricapm.com for more pics and info.

Getting to this point had many moments of disappointment, frustration and different realities. We started this project with a clear advantage over many people who move to Costa Rica with the dream of building their dream home. I have lived here in San Ramon in the community for over 5 years and Janet has worked as an architect, real estate developer and construction manager for over 25 years. This has been a super-challenging project for both of us.

With bulldozers and hyper development transforming Costa Rica and challenging it’s infrastructure and resources … we feel strongly that preserving existing houses and neighborhoods is where our priorities and energy lies. And, we are very proud of what we and our team have accomplished.

Back in San Ramon

2007-03-16T18:20:00.002-06:00

It’s a relief and pleasure to be back in San Ramon after 3 weeks in snowy, freezing New York State. My body was stiff, cold and never really relaxed in the cold winter weather. But more than that, the vibe is so different in my 2 hometowns. Life in the USA feels under pressure 24/7 in some way that you can’t quantify but certainly affects everyone there. My first day back in San Ramon it felt like someone took the pressure out of many aspects of life. My daily walks to town keep me balanced and living life at the proper pace. It is easy and normal to return to Pura Vida …

The daily 80-degree weather overwhelmingly affects my mental and physical well being. My neighbors and friends are not rushing around and their greetings and smiles are real and infectious. The nearly 4000 ft. altitude, daily sunshine and moderate temperatures make life easy to embrace.

Eating fresh shrimp, mussels and fish in my favorite restaurants for under $2 a plate nourishes me. For under $5, I returned from the ferria/farmers market with a total bounty of fruits and vegetables; a quality not available at any price in the USA. I got 4 cantaloupes for 75c, 2 pounds of vine ripened tomatoes for 19c, a pineapple for 60c and similar juicy bargains on mangos, spinach, papaya, etc.

Our contractors did a great job while we were away and our ocean view house is looking good and ready for sale. It was reassuring that Christopher and the crew’s actions matched their words ..working hard and working smart. This has not always been my experience in Costa Rica and we’re happy to have people we can trust.

The final word is that it’s hard to explain the differences but easy to feel them. With all the money, privilege, and material possessions in the USA, my friends and neighbors in San Ramon smile more and take the time to enjoy life and each other. I thank my lucky stars that fate brought me here and immersed me in this wonderful culture.

Taking a Break from San Ramon

2007-03-01T18:51:00.000-06:00

It is time to take a break from San Ramon and experience New York City and Ithaca for a few weeks. There's lots of snow on the ground and it's cold, dark and a little scary. I had fun with my 8 year old nephew Daniel in Brooklyn who seems to enjoy hanging with his uncle. I managed to eat Chinese, Thai, Japanese, Mexican, falafel, pizza, bagels and lox and every other ethnic food favorite that defines the New York culinary scene. Walking the streets of NYC and looking at the people is a fun contrast to San Ramon and Costa Rica. Topping the days off with reading the NY Times and living in English was nice for awhile. Did I mention how cold, snowy and expensive it was here?

Manana, I return to San Ramon. We left our crew to work while we were away. There are 4 contractors renovating a house, a Nicaraguan family improving the farm and Rosario and Ivania cleaning and watching our property. And then there's Oscar who drives by the farm on his tractor many times a day and makes me laugh and smile whenever we connect.

For now, my life in San Ramon and El Empalme is full to the max with work and transformation. My life in the USA is pretty much a vacation and a break from responsibility and decisions. The balance is always shifting and both lives and cultures nourish me yet also make me crazy ... kicking and screaming for the other. I feel pretty lucky but also kinda brave to live this big life.

Lunch in the Parque Central

2007-02-20T10:40:00.000-06:00

It's cool to just hang out in the Parque Central, the heart of the city. I'm always amazed at how many people are just sitting, talking to their friends and taking in life. There's not many places in the world where the weather rarely gets hot or cold and people don't consider work or rushing around as the defining aspect of their life.

February is the beginning of the school year so today the park was filled with hordes of uniformed school kids bursting with energy. Each group seems to have their bench or location and it's quite a lively scene throughout the day.

Janet and I also ran into our friend David who works at our building supply store Gema taking his lunch hour hanging in the park with his co-workers.

Anybody can pass their life away as a workaholic grabbing a few brass rings along the way. My friends and neighbors in San Ramon make an art form of enjoying life. I've learned a lot from them and enjoyed my afternoon walking to town, choosing a bench and enjoying the scene at the parque central.

Coffee Harvest

2007-02-15T08:03:00.002-06:00

Owning an organic coffee and fruit farm in El Empalme, San Ramon, Costa Rica is just about the last thing I ever would have imagined.

This week was our first coffee harvest. The reality of the opportunity and responsibility that comes with owning a coffee farm blew our minds. We have the privilege to nurture the farm and help the community.

Don Alejandro and his family appeared out of nowhere and asked if they could pick our coffee and work on the farm. They are a poor Nicaraguan family looking for an opportunity. It’s just the beginning but using the resources of the farm to help our neighbors should be quite a trip.

We have a few hundred pounds of coffee beans that we brought to my friend Martin Rodriguez to dry, process and roast. In about 2 months OUR first organic coffee harvest will be ready to drink.

The day following coffee harvest, Don Alejandro said for the health of our 6 lemon trees, he wanted to bring in the limons. I was shocked and pleased to see 600 limons in a half a day. In 15 days, our trees should produce their next crop. We’re fantasizing about our future organic lemonade stand and how to use our mountain (literally) of fruit. Besides our lemons, our coffee farm produces manos (hands) of banana, plantano and cuadrada, guavas, guayabas, oranges and sweet lemons, water apples, mangos and pitaaya. This is the true meaning of shade-grown coffee plants, a rich eco-system of fruit shading the coffee and feeding the many birds and animals.

Our friend Christopher studied agriculture for 6 years and will coordinate the projects.

Our neighbors in El Empalme have welcomed us and the possibilities are endless. Poco a poco.... The incredible sunsets into the Pacific Ocean make this a truly magical place. I can’t really think of too many places in the world that compare to our farm in El Empalme.

My New Machete

2007-02-11T12:53:00.000-06:00

I just celebrated a birthday and usually avoid gifts, etc. This year there was one thing I wanted. Janet bought me an 18-inch machete with lovely leather case. Now that I own a small farm filled with fruit, coffee and lush tropical plants, I wanted a machete to carve out my place. It was a blast holding them and trying to figure out size shape etc. It was kinda like a baseball player picking out a bat.

My only past machete experience was walking the nightime streets of Managua, Nicaragua a few years back My local host said that after someone stole the chocolate cake he was eating, he always armed himself at night. I wielded it on our walk home. Luckily, we arrived without incident. It would have been hard to explain why a peaceful guy from New York was walking the dangerous Managua streets brandishing a huge machete.

I'm hoping for a lifetime of mellow peaceful experiences with my new birthday present, cutting down fruit and carving paths through my lush farm in El Empalme outside of San Ramon.

My Dinner With Juan

2007-02-08T17:47:00.001-06:00

I met Juan a number of years ago when he was the head teller at Banco Popular. At 25 years old, he was half the age of many of those working under his supervision. Juan would help me in English in order to practice. Over time, he would be anticipating my bank stops, saving up lists of words and idioms for translation.

Now he works for Proctor and Gamble in San Jose, a prestigious job in Costa Rica, and during our dinner we both spoke about the challenges of living in two cultures. There are huge and numerous differences that we both see from our outsider vantage point of a foreigner living in another culture.

When he calls Cincinnati, and asks his suppliers how they are, they often respond with, “Not too bad.” There are only two answers for most Ticos to “How are you?” … Todo Bien or Pura Vida. For a Costa Rican to even have the word bad in your answer is socially unacceptable,

Juan was trained at P & G to give great service to “go the extra mile.” This is a new concept for him. In Costa Rica, “No Hay” is the most common response when a worker doesn’t have what you ask for. It is rarely followed by an explanation or a further attempt to find out more specific information.

At Banco Popular, Juan’s co-workers routinely kissed each other on the cheek to say hi and touched each other playfully and jokingly. He learned at P & G that this could be considered sexual harassment at a large U.S. company.

There is no right or wrong here, just 2 different cultural realities and norms. In order to best live in a foreign culture, it helps to understand the paradigm shifts. I’ve seen many non-Costa Ricans here filled with frustration and confusion when situations defy their logic and past experience. It’s been a long journey for me to flow smoothly here and has required a premium of patience and openness…and few shots of Guaro.

My Dinner With Juan was cool for both of us to discuss and laugh about our observations from living in each other’s cultures.

Living in the culture is an expression of eco-tourism.

Mi Destino/My Destiny in San Ramon, Costa Rica

2007-02-08T17:40:00.001-06:00

This will be my 6th Christmas season living in San Ramon, Costa Rica. Wow...I have grown, changed, been at emotional highs and lows ... and truly spent my years 45-51 experiencing things that I never imagined for myself. I'm thankful to the Ramonense (San Ramon natives) for taking me in and making me comfortable in this special town and country.

While the differences began as English/Spanish, snow/sun, expensive/inexpensive. I now feel the subtler differences... the ones that take awhile to get. Living in the present is a spiritual pursuit in the 1st World, while here it is intrinsically a part of life. A comical and sometimes difficult reality is that it's hard to make plans with people for days or even hours in the future. Punctuality and efficiently productive days are not a big part of the culture. When I walk down the street I shake hands with all my men friends and kiss all the ladies. This takes priority over rushing to accomplish and puts a smile on my face. Another way of saying this is... San Ramon and Costa Rica are more about being than striving. For most of us 1st World folks, this has the potential to create a happier and healthier life.

In the USA I had a series of careers...mortgage banker, vegetarian restaurant owner, CFO of a high tech company, restaurant reviewer for a newspaper, diamond sorter. I was born in Brooklyn, New York...graduated with a degree in International Politics from University in Albany and have lived in Ithaca, NY for over 25 years.

I spent the first years in San Ramon, Costa Rica renting a $70 a month apartment and living without car, phone, tv, all the accoutrements of my 1st World life. I walked the streets learning the language and little by little became a part of the scene. And I had my share of angels helping me make a life here. Pablo and Mary at the cigar store, Jimmy Lee the chiropractor, Sylvia (my landlady) and her family. Alonso and the folks at El Buho (now Rincon Poeta) and all the others who kept me here when the loneliness and the sometimes seemingly insurmountable daily challenges would have led most sane people to leave and go back to the comfort of their known life.

Now, over five years later, I have traveled Costa Rica from the Osa Peninsula to Guanacaste and been in every country in Central America. The nightime streets of Managua or San Salvador hardly resemble the Pura Vida of Costa Rica. San Ramon is clearly where I belong. For the last 2 years I have had a girlfriend and partner Janet with whom I own a home and other properties around San Ramon. You can visit our website at www.costaricapm.com to learn more. Feel free to contact me.

Costa Rica is a culture centered around the family while the USA feels like the ultimate expression of the individual. Having Janet here has connected me in a deeper way in San Ramon. This being Thanksgiving, I am thankful for how my years in Costa Rica have helped me to appreciate and connect with my own family. Now that I've given a little background on myself...I'll be regularly adding new postings, sharing my experiences and reflections on life in San Ramon and Costa Rica

Pura Vida
Steven

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